Thursday, September 18, 2008

The Wild Wild North

The security situation is more of a nuisance than threatening. There are rumors constantly about bandits and carjackings. And then as I go out of my house on Sunday night, I start to hear gunfire, but think it is just firecrackers. I get to the next block and see three tracers whiz through the air. I pause. I ask someone. And the woman, running past, goes willi ka koy hugeydo! Get inside! I went a block back and saw a broussey truck zoom past on the gravel road. Still more gunshots. But people are outside, breaking the fast, saying it is just stupid kids playing with firecrackers. I get to where I normally eat dinner and they are afraid to go out. We conclude it is the rebels. We find out later, yes, some armed Tuaregs came into town looking for someone. The gendarmes arrested 3 men and rounded up many others. I don’t think this is an escalation. It’s unrest, yes, but this is the Wild Wild North.

Some articles from the Malian press, my comments are in red.

Security: Confrontation in Fafa; The army attacks the Gandaïso

Le Républicain - Wednesday, September 17, 2008
Yesterday afternoon a clash took place between the Malian army and the Gandaïso. There have been deaths on both sides. The army, determined to get their hands on the alleged head of the armed group called the Gandaïso, carried out thirty arrests in Fafa.

The alleged head of the Gandaïso, Mr. Amadou Diallo, is a native of Fafa, a village located 75 kilometers south of Ansongo on the national highway between Gao and Niamey.

According to our sources in Gao, the closure of the "Chateau" district (sector 3) by the army on Sunday resulted in the arrest of six people. Hence, the army has embarked on a concerted effort to apprehend the head of the armed group (most people think what happened in Gao and the Gandaïso are unrelated).

Reached by telephone, concerning the question of the existence of militias in Mali, the Director of Information and Public Relations for the Malian Army (DIRPA), Colonel Abdoulaye Coulibaly, was firm in saying that "militias do not exist in Mali. Everything must be done to restore peace. The army will never accept the existence of a militia. It is not possible to support the existence of a militia in our country." Concerning Gao, Colonel Coulibaly maintains that "the army is now patrolling the area and there is no question that people will be allowed to create disorder." (Really? Wouldn't you say shooting off guns in the middle of the city creates disorder?)


Gao: Army fire breeds panic

By B. Daou - Le Républicain - Tuesday, September 16, 2008

The "Chateau" district of Gao (sector 3) was cordoned off by the Malian army at sunset, Sunday, September 14 after gunfire, which terrified the population for nearly an hour (it was a few rapports followed by a few more periodically for 10 minutes and then a few more isolated rapports 30 minutes later; and, like I said, people kept going about their lives, breaking the fast, listening to music/the radio, and even playing at the foosball tables in the road). The army was, we learn, looking for members of the Gandaïso militia, which resulted in two arrests (in the article above didn't they say the arrested 6? And I heard it was only 3...). During the day yesterday (Monday), it was learned that all of the gunfire of the previous day was a diversion; firing in the air which created a panic (not really, all the people I talked to thought first of hooligans with firecrackers before rebels with guns) among the population of Gao. Has the existence of militias in the north of Mali become a reality? (It has been a reality since the rebellion. They just haven't been active).

Sunday evening, it was panic in Gao, just at the time of the breaking of the fast: gunfire was heard. The "Chateau" sector had been identified by the military and the army covered the city of Gao.

The population, meanwhile, was relieved of their fear, the fear of a rebel attack. Or was it the Gandaïso, which took the city? (I seriously dislike the politics of fear in these two paragraphs--southerners will read this and panic not knowing what actually happened! One neighborhood where 3-6 men/soldiers shot guns off into the air is NOT taking the city).

According to some comments in the town of Gao, it was the security service in the region of Gao, headed by the governor, who took part in the gunfire.

For others, it was a threat of attack that targeted the residences of the Director General of the Agency for Integrated Development in the North (ADIN), Aklinin and the President of the Chamber of Agriculture of the Gao Region, Mr. Mohamed Ag Hatabo. The armed troops included elements of Ganda Koy (or Gandaïso), according to the rumors resulting from the panic.

In this confusing situation, there have been arrests. According to our sources, citing the names of two persons who were reportedly arrested. It is Mr. Aliou Maïga, a former policeman and native of Labbezanga (near the Mali-Niger border) and a custodian of the Norwegian Church in Gao (whose name was not known).

In the "Chateau" area of Gao, which was cordoned off, families have been searched and throughout the night, the army patrolled the city of Gao, our sources indicate.

It was yesterday that the population realized that the shootings did not occur by chance, but was the result of the army itself that shot into the air, indicated a source in Gao. "They created the attack in order to carry out the arrests," says one.

According to our source, at the time of shooting, (i.e. the alleged attack), the head of military operations, Colonel El Hadj Gamou, was camped at the time with his family in the stadium, which is located on the way out of town. This makes people believe that the attack was only a simulation (A local NGO rep who works with good governance agrees that it was simply a posed "attack" to help the governor, who is currently a colonel, attain the status of general. He even said that they used some firecrackers as distraction, hence the confusion of whether it was gun fire or not).

In the opinion of some, this military operation created a psychosis and leaves the door open for the settling of scores. Sources indicate that the head of Gandaïso (Mr. Amadou Diallo) is the target.

Activities resumed yesterday during the day, but after 6:00 p.m., people hid in their homes, leading to a de facto curfew (the 100s of people I passed while out in the evening weren't exactly hiding). According to the Governor Amadou Baba Touré, he participated on Sunday, September 14, in Ouatagouna (80 kilometers south of Ansongo, on the road to Niger), along with the Minister of Environment and Sanitation, Mr. Alhassane Ag Agatham, at the launching of an activity to protect the environment.

Friday, September 12, 2008

Miss Not Enough Salt

I'm enjoying working with my colleagues of the PHP team—and because I am interested in actually seeing the work succeed, I work hard. Sometimes though, I get the feeling that as a result people assume I can do everything. Not true. 

It's fun figuring out everyone's truc (French for "thing"). Our guardian in Bamba is Monsieur pas de problème, another agent is all about kanga cirey. They were joking about it so frequently, I finally demanded one night, and learned it literally means “under the palm trees” and they let me figure out the "other" sense. We have Madame n'importe quoi who is always commenting on the seemingly chaotic unfolding of the projects. I especially like Monsieur ça va aller, which is a way of saying there's still hope. 

It was great going out to Garbamé in the pinasse (long, wooden boat with grass mat-canopy). Well, beyond the poorly timed sand storm, the non-operational generator which was "fixed" after the lancement, and the lack of good sleeping quarters, it was a good mission. ALL the relais (community health relays/first response team) showed up. Even having only been informed the night before and it being Ramadan. Our animator did really well and the morning question-answer was great, though it was the doctor's wife who won. She did answer practically all the questions perfectly. More women than men answered, and no kids replied. The riddle we came up with as a "challenge" was figured out too quickly: Adamize kaŋ kaa aduñya ra, a si hin ka huna nda haya kul kala n’ga. Macin ti hayadin?” Fafa wawa. Translated roughly as "A child who has come into the world can't live but for one thing." Two guys said water, and another just said their mother. The answer we were looking for was breast milk. The sun gave me a nasty burn even in my tungu (blue full-body wrap). It was funny that with my way of dress an agent commented on the trip over that I resembled the bride when her cousins take her away from her family to go live with her husband. I guess I had the lounging, sad look going. It was beautiful to see the wind play at the blue tunics of the men as they stood and knelt on the side of a dune at the edge of the river to pray. The dedication of the fishermen casting their nets. The hopeful look of the farmers in the rice paddies. And the rare sight of two women poling a pirogue along. 

The whole week reminded me of what a gift it is to be able to speak like a koyraboro. From radio shows to informal chats with my "spice girls" (who both got their high school diploma this year; one wants to go to Gao for health school and the other to FLASH--the English program at the University of Bamako). Even one butcher recognized me from Sala! (Speaking of Sala, my training host-family called to say the daughter-in-law gave birth to a little boy). The evening the Timbuktu boat came was great—well, interesting to see the commerce come and visitors and how Bamba borey actually got more animated. Because honestly, it is a village that sleeps after the sun goes down. Or they’re just good at retreating into their homes. A woman I knew in Ansongo was there to greet the boat, she’s actually from Bamba and was there with her family for vacation before she goes back for the school year. I was voluntarily the cook for the mission. Once the driver even asked, "Are all Americans like you? Doing nice things for people?" It was funny how each meal they told me there was not enough salt—to the point where it has become I joke. So now I'm Madame ciiri mana wasa. 

Little by little we are making progress. People definitely listen to the radio in the commune of Bamba. My celebrity continues to spread--even out to the smallest of villages. And people often approach to ask about what I said in the radio shows. Our theatre tour should go well, as should the HEARTHs (nutrition-oriented support groups) I am going to start with women. The agents are working on following-up on the relais (whether they actually retained what we taught them) and will soon do a household baseline survey on nutrition. I am really enjoying my work. It gives me such energy.

Monday, September 1, 2008

Wa kobi kob'i se!

::Applause:: Our program manager is still receiving phone calls about last Friday’s "lancement" (kick-off of activities) in Bamba. Despite some difficulties with the generator, a sick cameraman, and changes in the program, we presented messages on cholera, malaria, and good breast feeding to over 50 officials/chefs and easily 200 community members. The audience especially loved the bit when the cholera "microbe" was trying to get into the wooden replica of the pump (access to clean water is one of our main interventions) and the giant mosquito attacking people who don't sleep under nets. I translated our coordinator's address directly from French to Sonrai much to the amusement of the crowd. It's been replayed on the radio too many times--and now with the messages I recorded on good health that play morning and night, Mariama Cissé is very well known along this stretch of river! It amazes me how many people rely on the radio, a result of isolation I suppose. It's a great tool for our information dissemination. The children were excited to sing our educational song, and get a Tshirt for their work (others "won" Tshirts if they answered questions properly during the evaluation part of the program). The idea is to our 25 singers hooked and then they will sing in school, in the road, while playing etc. and other kids will learn the message...goodness, it's like a shady propaganda scheme...

Question du jour: Who? Who will it be, to make change? Everyone accepts the system status quo, even the West and Development. It has to start with individuals who will demand higher standards for their own children. Education is key. And then if we can get the system to change--I feel it would be better to build a few well-supplied schools with strict admission standards. I am starting to realize you can’t have equality. There will always be a ruling class. And it is good, important to society, to have an order: to have those who provide services, those who think, those who educate, those who lead. It is crazy to want universal primary education because it does nothing to change the country—saying after everyone, boys and girls have a basic RRR level they will develop themselves. In fact, it is the cause of a lot of unemployment. Once a farmer is enlightened, albeit only a little, he refuses to continue his work in the fields and goes to the city to find work. But without industry, there is no work. And without a base, farming and cultivating, there is no industry. The education he got closed doors. Especially because the quality is still poor. Ansongo passed everyone, no questions asked. Students in Bourem got their DEF (9th grade diploma which is the basis for most positions in the civil service) this year without ever getting basic math, physics or chemistry. The French system could work because it is a more vocational, tracked approach, but the students of this broken system (post-colonial, Development created dependency, poor funding) are today's teachers. So the quality continues to descend...

Disclaimer

All tales, opinions, and attitudes are those Joanna has experienced and subsequently composed. This Blog does not reflect the ideas or policies of the U.S. Peace Corps, its employees and volunteers, at large.